Flee to the Country. From Cape Town to the Cape Winelands

If you’ve explored Cape Town it may look familiar: the tasting room is a replica of the Koopmans de Wet House in Strand Street, the home (now a museum) of the original De Wets who came to South Africa in 1693. Today great-great-great... grandson Danie de Wet makes award-winning chardonnays, along with a wide range of other whites and reds under the De Wetshof, Danie de Wet and Dukesfield labels. Cellar tours by appointment only, phone and book. Why is Van Loveren especially popular on Saturdays? That’s when the wine tasting is accompanied by the legendary Aunty Jean’s sweetcorn fritters.

Although she is no longer around to make them, her recipe is still followed faithfully to complement the broad range of red and white wines, all well priced for South African budgets. The tastings are held either in her former home or in her beautiful garden – ask about the delightful stories behind each tree, planted by Aunty Jean to commemorate everything from the end of World War Two, to Mandela’s presidency, to family graduations – they read like a potted history of the world! There are no official cellar tours, but you’re welcome to stroll through the cellar on your own. And you can bring your own picnic to enjoy in the garden.

During the week you can taste Viljoensdrift wines at the cellar, but even better over weekends is to board Uncle Ben and taste everything from chenin blanc, chardonnay and shiraz to merlot and rosé as you chug gently along the Breede River, watching the birds and soaking up the tranquility. If you’re feeling peckish, the Viljoensdrift team can put together a picnic of pâtés, breads, cheeses, smoked salmon and cold meats to enjoy as you loll on the banks of the river, or to eat on the boat (complete with gingham cloths; book in advance).

There are regular riverside concerts on summer Sundays and the odd one in winter where the proceeds go to charity. Groups of 15 or more can hire Uncle Ben during the week. But if the water isn’t for you, head for the hills and some fine dining at Fraai Uitzicht 1798.

Viljoensdrift to Fraai Uitzicht 1798 – 10min

Turn onto the Bonnievale road towards Robertson, then right to Klaas Voogdsstasie, Ashton, opposite Bon Courage. T-junction right on the Ashton road (R60), then left to Klaas Voogds East (gravel). You’ll feel a happy calm wash over you as you arrive at Fraai Uitzicht 1798, where an abundance of water and brilliantly coloured flowers lead to the restaurant deck, offering stunning views over the whole Robertson valley.

Host Axel Spanholtz exudes warm bonhomie, while chef Mario Motti produces the fine food made with herbs and vegetables from the kitchen garden that made the restaurant one of Wine Magazine’s Top 100 in South Africa.

Take a walk through the vineyards and fruit orchards, or (if they’re not too busy) tour the oldest wine cellar in the valley. And if it’s just too beautiful to leave, you can spend the night in one of several luxury chalets in the garden. There are concerts every second Wednesday evening.

Fraai Uitzicht 1798 to Soekershof – 7min

Head back down to the R60 and turn right towards Robertson. Turn right to Klaas Voogds West (gravel). You’re cheerfully invited to get lost the moment you arrive at the Soekershof (‘Seeker’s Court’) Walkabout. And that you will, lost both in the various mazes that sprawl over the property, and in the imaginations of the owners, Herman van Bon and Yvonne de Wit, who’ve created a vast, whimsical garden where it’s difficult to tell truth from fantasy. The Dutch pair fell in love with the area while on holiday, and within months had immigrated and bought this sadly neglected property.

As they cleared the weeds a fabulously diverse cactus garden began to appear (planted by Maarten Malherbe, a pioneer of the cactus trade in South Africa). From there, as Herman says, ‘the project went hopelessly out of control’. They’ve restored the garden, which now has up to 4 000 different plants, including 1 800 cacti and succulents, and planted a 13 870 square metre hedge maze, the largest in the world. That led to the making of even more mazes, including an ancient Cretan labyrinth of cacti, and an inspiring Philosophers’ Garden.

Look out for a huge cactus that might be the first ever planted in South Africa. Herman is a master storyteller, who can even work James Bond into the story of Klaas Voogds, the legendary adventurer after whom the area is named, who was finally trampled by an elephant. Be sure to ask what happened to the elephant – but be prepared to suspend belief...

Soekershof to Kolgans – 30 min

Turn right onto the R60 and drive back through Robertson. At about 14.8km, turn left to Goree. The road becomes gravel at about 19km. Keep going and turn left to Kolgans at about 24km. As the sun begins to paint the vineyards orange and the towering mountains purple, follow the narrow track that weaves down to the river on the farm Nerina. At the end is a peaceful inlet, where you board the Kolgans riverboat for a two-hour cruise, gliding quietly among the birds as you enjoy real country food – ‘We cook in Afrikaans,’ says Amanda Conradie, who runs Kolgans with her husband Frans and family.