Let The Cape Rock You

Introduction

This is a route of wild rocks and towering mountain passes – arguably the most dramatic and scenic route in this book. You’ll see some most astonishing rock formations, forged out of ancient cataclysmic events, then delicately decorated by the San who roamed these mountains hundreds and thousands of years ago.

This South African holidays route starts with a walk up the mother of all rocks, a huge colossus of granite above Paarl, then journeys through the Cederberg to Agter Pakhuis in an area that may have more rock paintings per square kilometre than anywhere else in southern Africa.

These are the roads less travelled, beautiful drives through remote and rugged rockscapes and endless valley vistas. The solitude means the nights sparkle with thousands of stars, which the Bushmen believed were embers drifting up from the night fires.

Time:

Two nights, three days. But if you have more time on your South African holidays, take a fourth day in the Cederberg, overnighting at Sanddrif or Kromrivier

Distance:

About 500km, ending in Clanwilliam. Add 240km for the direct route back to Cape Town on the N7, or 170km to join the Flowers & Seas Route via Lambert’s Bay.

Best time to go:

All year, although spring and autumn are best – the weather is warm but still mild. Be prepared for temperatures over 30 °C in summer. Winter’s cooler weather is good for hiking, but rain and snow can make the gravel roads more treacherous.

The Route:

Let the Cape rock you as you climb monster boulders in Paarl, then explore the Cederberg's ancient rock art and wild mountain formations.

Day One

Walk to the top of Paarl Rock. Drive Bain’s Kloof to Ceres (pack a picnic). Explore the rock art near Op-die-Berg. Overnight at Mount Ceder or Kagga Kamma.

Day Two

Discover Stadsaal and Truitjieskraal in the Cederberg. Taste Cederberg wine and swim at Maalgat Overnight near Clanwilliam.

Day Three

View rock art on the Sevilla and Salmanslaagte trails. Lunch at the mission station of Wupperthal before touring the famous shoe factory. Head back to Cape Town, or go on to Lambert’s Bay on the coast via the Heerenlogement Cave to join the Flowers; Seasonal.

Route back to Cape Town

Note: Fuel is not readily available in the Cederberg, so be sure to fill up in Paarl, Wellington, Ceres, Op-die-Berg (8:00–17:00), Citrusdal or Clanwilliam.

Siyabona Africa Travel recommends Cape Winelands accommodation.

Don’t go without Peter Slingsby’s Cederberg:

The Map (Baardskeerder), and his books on rock art sites. Look out for Rock Art of the Western Cape: Book 1: Traveller’s Rest and the Sevilla Trail; Book 2: Bushmans Kloof; Book 3: Cederberg Conservancy and Eastern Koue Bokkeveld (all The Fontmaker). Another book to pack is Some Views on Rock Paintings in the Cederberg, by Janette Deacon.Take Wild Flower Guide number 10: Cederberg (Botanical Society), to identify the flora. The Romance of Cape Town Passes, by Graham Ross (David Philip) gives you all the historical background.

Before you go

This entire South African holidays route is suitable for a saloon car (unless there’s been some extreme bad weather), but a 4x4 would be more comfortable. Phone ahead to check the condition of the roads in winter. Cellphone reception is patchy or non-existent on this route, particularly after Day One. The Sevilla rock art trail near Clanwilliam is tough in summer’s heat, especially November to February. If you do it then, aim to start walking early – even at 5:00 – so you can be out of the sun by 9:00. If you’re travelling in a tall camper or bus, make sure that you can pass under 3.8m – the height of an overhanging rock on Bain’s Kloof.

Day 1 Waterfront to Paarl Rocks – 1hr 10min

From the Waterfront, turn left and follow signs to N1 Paarl. Around 53km take Exit 55, R45 (R101) Paarl Main Road and Franschhoek and turn left at the stop. At 55km turn left on to Jan Phillips Drive, signed Paarl Mountain Reserve (becomes gravel). At 57km T-junction right to Paarl Mountain Reserve. Pass a picnic area and toilets at 61km – keep right to the rocks. 400m later keep left to rocks, through the boom at 62km. Park after 500m and take an easy walk onto the top of Paarl Rock, but for more impressive rocks drive another 500m.

At 48 kilometres you’ll see some rather phallic, swooping white stone columns up on a hill on the left. That’s the Taal (Language) Monument, inaugurated in 1975 to commemorate the origin and growth of Afrikaans. A colossal cluster of granite domes that soar 654 metres into the sky sets the tone for this rocky route, named the Paarl (‘Pearl’) mountains by the very first European visitors because of the way they glisten when it rains. (The local Khoikhoi called them the Tortoise mountains.)