Let The Cape Rock You

At 48 kilometres you’ll see some rather phallic, swooping white stone columns up on a hill on the left. That’s the Taal (Language) Monument, inaugurated in 1975 to commemorate the origin and growth of Afrikaans. A colossal cluster of granite domes that soar 654 metres into the sky sets the tone for this rocky route, named the Paarl (‘Pearl’) mountains by the very first European visitors because of the way they glisten when it rains. (The local Khoikhoi called them the Tortoise mountains.)

Paarl Rock, which dominates the town below, is the first boulder you come to – on top is an old cannon that used to be fired to tell local farmers a ship needing fresh produce had come into Table Bay – but keep going to the more impressive Britannia (on the left) and Gordon’s rocks further up the road. There’s an easy path to the top of Britannia Rock, from where you can see all the way to Table Mountain, with absolutely breathtaking 360-degree views of the Paarl Valley and the Peninsula.

Although the path up is steep, with chains to help over the awkward bits, it’s worth it. If you’re reasonably fit you’ll do it in 10 minutes, the rest of us need 15 or 20. Once back in the car, note that the drive down follows a different route to the way up!

Paarl Rocks to Op-die-Berg via Ceres and Prince Alfred Hamlet – 2hr 15min (excluding time for lunch)

From the top parking area, follow the road down and through boom. At 2.8km, turn left – this is not signposted. At the stop (8km) turn left, then right to the R45 to Wellington, Malmesbury. At 13km turn right at the four-way stop to R44 Wellington. (Ignore next left to Hermon, Ceres.) At the traffic lights and T-junction at about 18km, turn left to Wellington. At the church, turn right at the traffic lights to Wolseley, Ceres via Bain’s Kloof. Bain’s Kloof village is at the top of the pass at about 34km. Ignore the right turn to Worcester at about 49km and go straight to Wolseley, Ceres.
(Ignore next left to Wolseley.)

At 63km, cross the Breede River and at the T-junction turn right to R46 Ceres and cross Michell’s Pass. Enter Ceres. At about 73km, turn left at the lights to R303 PA Hamlet, Op-die-Berg and Citrusdal. You’ll pass through Prince Alfred Hamlet at about 81km, and start the Gydo Pass. (Ignore right to Touws River.) At 115km, turn left into Op-die-Berg. The road almost all the way from Ceres is flanked by two starkly different mountain ranges.

The Swartruggens mountains rise serenely on the right, while on the left, the tormented rocks of the Witsenberg and Skurweberg (‘Scaly Mountains’) lie scattered and shattered, victims of some horrendous cataclysm that must have rocked the earth here. Op-die-Berg (‘On the Mountain’) is a tiny hamlet that’s home to Wethu Experiences, a community-based project that brings much needed tourism to the area. They will take you on an interesting two and a half hour rock art tour to three ancient sites, starting with an open living area, then a birthing site, and lastly through a 10 metre high tunnel to a fascinating shaman site. (This can be combined with a kid and granny-friendly donkey cart excursion.)

Wethu also offers mountain bike rides and hiking in the Skurweberg and the Swartruggens Nature Conservancy, which might be under snow around August and September. Booking for the Wethu tour is essential. The rock art site is en route to the overnight stops at Kagga Kamma or Mount Ceder. If you’d like to go on from the site (instead of returning to Op-die-Berg with the guide), let them know in advance. It’s not far to the two overnight spots – Mount Ceder’s cottages on the river or Kagga Kamma, which is priced for the international market. Alternatives are Klein Cederberg (stone cabins, with rock art sites), Zoo Ridge guesthouse, Nuwerust (self-catering) and Rietvlei (B&B).

Op-die Berg to Mount Ceder – 45min

Turn back onto the R303. After 500m, turn right onto R355 Ceres–Karoo and Cederberg. The tar ends at about 17km – keep straight to Cederberg (or turn right here to Kagga Kamma). After the Blinkberg Pass turn right into Mount Ceder at 51km. Mount Ceder has several tastefully decorated stone cottages, four of which are on a perennial river – enjoy a quick dip and sundowner amid the tranquillity. Ask about their hiking routes and rock art site – a short drive, then a 10-minute walk. Horse trails (one to three hours) can be arranged. (Self-catering, licensed restaurant.)

Or go to Kagga Kamma (1hr 5min from Op-die-Berg)

Turn right at 17km (see above). After Katbakkies Pass turn left at 37km to Kagga Kamma. The lodge at the 15 000-hectare Kagga Kamma Private Game Reserve is set among boulders and weathered stones which hide a number of rock art sites. Get there in time for sundowners over the canyon, then go for a night game drive and enjoy the stars. In the morning, join a guided tour of the San art – the cheetah paintings here are the only ones found in South Africa. Accommodation is in luxury thatched huts or ‘cave suites’ tucked among the boulders (full board).

Siyabona Africa Travel recommends Kagga Kamma Private Game Reserve