The Heart of Zululand - 450km

ULUNDI

Ulundi, the legislative capital of KwaZulu-Natal, lies on the northern banks of the White Mfolozi River and its Zulu name is translated as ‘the high place’. Site of the royal village of the Zulu kingdom, Ulundi is inextricably linked to the history of the Zulu people and their resistance to British colonialism. To the north of the town is the grave of Mpande, who ruled Zululand as king from 1840 to 1872 and established his royal village at Nodwengu, just north of Ulundi, around 1845.

Following Mpande’s death, Cetshwayo established his military capital at Ondini, about 5 km southeast of Nodwengu. The village was burned by the British after the Battle of Ulundi, but has been partially reconstructed. The KwaZulu Cultural Museum in the Ondini Historic Reserve has a fascinating collection of beads and other craftwork, weapons and other items depicting Zulu culture.

A monument about 3 km west of Ondini marks the site of the final battle of the Anglo-Zulu War, fought on 4 July 1879. Here, a force of 2 281 British regulars and 465 black troops under the command of Lieutenant-General Lord Chelmsford, inflicted a decisive defeat on the 15 000 to 20 000-strong Zulu force. The Zulu losses have been estimated at between 950 and 1 500 killed, while three British officers and 10 men were killed and 69 wounded.

eMAKHOSINI

eMakhosini, or the Valley of the Kings, is the birthplace of the Zulu nation. Among its numerous historic sites are Mthonjaneni Spring, from where water was brought for the personal use of King Dingane, and the graves of Voortrekker leader Piet Retief and 69 of his followers. They were killed at KwaMatiwane near uMgungundhlovu on 6 February 1838 on the instructions of Dingane after concluding a land treaty. In the nearby Mkhumbane Valley is the royal village established by Dingane, who became king after the assassination of Shaka by two of his brothers in 1828. Named uMgungundhlovu (‘the secret meeting place of the elephant’), the Zulu capital consisted of between 1 700 and 2 000 beehive-shaped homesteads, and had a population of between 10 000 and 12 000 people. Eight regiments, each consisting of about 1 000 soldiers, also lived in the royal village. The village has been partially reconstructed and the site museum provides a fascinating insight into the life of its people. As well as occupying a central place in Zulu culture, the Valley of the Kings is also the burial place of Zulu kings, and contains the graves of Senzangakhona, father of Shaka, Dingane and Mpande, and Dinizulu, who ruled as king from 1884 to 1888 and 1898 to 1907.