The Restless Frontier - 275km

Unlikely to escape attention are the tunnel-like avenues of hazel trees, while the Oak Avenue is a popular short walk. Visitors can explore the magnificent indigenous forests by following a network of trails. Attractions include the Big Tree, a 34-m-high yellowwood, and waterfalls with descriptive names such as Madonna and Child, Kettlespout, Swallowtail, Bridal Veil and Thirty-Nine Steps.

Another attraction is St Patrick-on-the-Hill, a small circular memorial chapel built of dressed stone by the Houghton family in 1935. In October each year, Hogsback hosts an arts festival featuring cabaret, piano recitals, jazz and classical guitar music, as well as songs and dance.

KEISKAMMAHOEK

The R63 road to Keiskammahoek leads past several historic sites relating to the Frontier Wars. Heading in a northwesterly direction, the road passes the site of Fort Cox, one of the many military posts established during the Frontier Wars and named after Major William Cox of the Gordon Highlanders. Built in 1847, the fort was further strengthened in 1850 and served as a central staging point. A short way on is Burnshill, where British forces suffered defeat during the War of the Axe (1846–47).

The Burnshill Mission, established in 1830, was named after John Burns, one of the founders of the Glasgow Missionary Society. A short way on lies the turnoff to the grave of Chief Ngqika Gaika, father of Sandile. He died on 13 November 1829, and was buried on the site of his kraal. At Boma Pass, at the top end of Sandile Dam, a 700-strong British force that had set off from Fort Cox was ambushed in a narrow gorge on Christmas Eve in 1850. Twenty-three British soldiers were killed in the attack, which became a prelude to the Eighth Frontier War (1850–53), also known as the War of Mlanjeni.

Keiskammahoek lies in a basin at the confluence of the Keiskamma and Gxulu rivers below the Amatola Mountains. Established as one of a chain of military outposts, it played an important role in the Frontier Wars between 1846 and 1853. Castle Eyre, on the western outskirts of the settlement, was built in 1852. The town is an important commercial centre for the timber and agricultural (livestock and tobacco) industries.

From Keiskammahoek, the R63 leads over Red Hill Pass in a southerly direction. Amalinde marks the site of the bloodiest battle in the history of the Xhosa-speaking people west of the Kei River. The battle was precipitated by the claim of Chief Ngqika Gaika to chieftainship over the Rharabe Xhosa, which led to a quarrel with his uncle, Ndlambe. In 1818 Chief Ngqika’s son, Maqoma, was defeated by Ndlambe at the Battle of Amalinde, but a British force came to the assistance of Ngqika and defeated Ndlambe.

A short way further on is the turnoff to the Ntaba ka Ndoda National Shrine. Situated at the foot of the mountain of the same name, the shrine was built in honour of the Xhosa chiefs who fought against British rule. Continuing further, there is a memorial on the left of the road marking the spot where Lieutenant Bailey and his men were killed in action during the Frontier War of 1834–35. The name Keiskamma is of Khoekhoen origin, meaning either ‘puffadder river’ or ‘glittering water’.