The Ruens to De Hoop - 310km

SWELLENDAM

...at the foot of the Langeberg Mountains, is the third-oldest town in South Africa. Established in 1743 as a magisterial district, Swellendam briefly enjoyed the status of a republic when the local burghers revolted against the maladministration of the Dutch East India Company on 17 June 1795. The republic was short-lived, though, as three months later the first British occupation of the Cape began.

The town is renowned for its many well-preserved Cape Dutch and Georgian buildings, among them the Drostdy (magistrate's court), the only 18th-century drostdy still in existence. The stately building forms the focal point of a museum complex consisting of the Ambagswerf (tradesmen's yard), the old gaol, Mayville with its Victorian rose garden and Zanddrif, an 18th-century farmhouse (now a restaurant).

Several day walks, ranging from easy one-hour rambles to a strenuous full-day hike, range over the mountain slopes of the Marloth Nature Reserve just north of the town. Swellendam is the centre of the world's largest youngberry-producing area, as well as the surrounding wheat, fruit, sheep and dairy farms.

RÛENS

This Afrikaans name, meaning 'ridges', refers to the typically undulating landscape traversed by the road between Swellendam and Bredasdorp. Also referred to as the Ruggens, or Ruggensveld, the region extends from the Riviersonderend Mountains southwards to the Duineveld along the coast, and from the Houwhoek Pass eastwards to beyond Bredasdorp. It owes its undulating nature to the incision of numerous rivers and streams through the limestone overlying the ancient rocks of the Malmesbury Group.

BREDASDORP

...the centre of the surrounding wheat and sheep farming district, was established in 1838 by Michiel van Breda. The highlight for visitors is the Shipwreck Museum, which houses a fascinating display of figureheads, cannons, coins, porcelain, ships' bells and other artefacts recovered from the many vessels wrecked along the Overberg coast. The adjacent old coach house contains an interesting collection of Cape carts, a Scotch cart (a two-wheel tip cart drawn by horses or oxen), two horse-drawn hearses and an old fire engine.

The Old Parsonage is a typical strandveld house, and has been furnished with articles salvaged along the coast. The Audrey Blignault Room, at the tourism bureau, is dedicated to the Afrikaans author, who was born in Bredasdorp. The bureau also has an interesting display on the Foot of Africa Marathon, the continent's southernmost marathon. South of Bredasdorp, the 800-ha Heuningberg Nature Reserve provides protection to over 300 plant species, including eight of the 14 genera of the protea family, a rich diversity of ericas, buchu and geophytes.

Among the over 36 endemics to be seen are the Bredasdorp lily (Cyrtanthus guthrieae) and a pincushion(Leucospermum heterophyllum). There are many short walks, as well as two longer routes of 2,5 and 3 hours, respectively.

DE HOOP NATURE RESERVE

Covering 36 000 ha, the De Hoop Nature Reserve features a variety of habitats: large tracts of coastal fynbos, shifting sand dunes, the scenic De Hoop Vlei and 45 km of unspoilt coastline. The reserve lies in an area with some 1 500 species of fynbos, including 50 species that are endemic to De Hoop. Fauna include the largest bontebok population in the country, Cape mountain zebra, eland, grey rhebok, steenbok, common duiker, Cape grysbok and ostrich.

Birders flock to the 15-km-long De Hoop Vlei, a wetland of international importance for migratory birds. Of the 260 bird species recorded, 97 are waterbirds, among them 12 waterfowl species and 13 species of migrant waders such as little stints, curlew sandpipers and ruffs. The coast is the habitat of the African black oystercatcher and the Damara tern. In addition to a short circular drive for vehicles near the office complex, there are also picnic sites and day walks, as well as a mountain bike route.

The waters off De Hoop have the largest concentration of southern right whales along the South African coast and the reserve offers superb vantage points for viewing these majestic creatures. Self-catering cottages are available, but visitors must provide their own bedding and kitchen utensils. A campsite is also available.

POTBERG

Rising over 400 m above the coastal plain in the northeastern corner of the De Hoop Nature Reserve, Potberg is an inselberg (island mountain) of sandstones and quartzites. The mountain cliffs are home to the last breeding colony of the Cape vulture (Gyps coprotheres) in the Western Cape; with the active co-operation of local farmers, the colony has increased from a mere 45 in 1986 to 107 adult birds in 2000.